The Tyranny of The Penis

“And the price for the best underground venue in Buenos Aires goes to… Cocoliche!” A lanky bearded guy walks up to the stage, takes the award and marches off with a mischievous grin, followed by a procession of fairytale people with blue hair and all sorts of piercings. A triumphal siege. I haven’t seen many people of that kind in Buenos Aires, especially not at the D-Mode Awards party I managed to smuggle myself in tonight. Electrified. This is a sign. I need to talk to this guy as I wanna know more. I didn’t understand anything the guy who hosted the award ceremony said about Cocoliche but I feel like I need to take some action. I follow the freaks through the crowd. They remind me of a delegation of hobbits out of “Lord of The Rings” as they stand out of the posh’n’groomed celebrity crowd. “Hey”, I shout: “Tell me more about this club of yours.” The guy stops, smiles and introduces himself as Adolfo Cortes, “kind of a sick joke because my parents are Jewish”, he smirks. “Yeah, the club is cool. Come and check it out. We have a party going on Friday and Saturday.” He sports this broad American accent, which to me sounds like someone playing it extra cool but I don’t care. I am on. I want to find out what is all about. I will be there.

The club is in the center of the city, not far from the obelisk which marks the heart of downtown, in a nice looking building. We pay the entrance fee and find: an up for it party crowd. VJ backdrops. Beautiful transvestites. Strong drinks. A nice chill out area upstairs. The toilet. Girls are shouting at each other, and all of a sudden, I understand something: “No se” means “I don’t know”. Yuppie. I am happy. I feel I have found what I am looking for. A venue where people are heading because they are seriously into clubbing. And into music. Tonight, it’s Adolfo aka Udolpho who’s playing a sick blend of trancey tinged techno tunes. There might have been a time when I wouldn’t have danced to this due to elitist reasons, but since I got here I realised that this attitude is just so wrong: Why not just dance to anything totally unbiassed, unprejudiced? Who gave me the idea that techno trance is some kind of no-go music I cannot dance to? I so feel like having a good time. That I am dancing right now is also partially down to Emilio, my loyal companion, who is soaking in all the new impressions like a sponge in the shower, enjoying every moment. I feel like I am opening up again, after countless years in a scene consisting of people who are often too judgmental and moody for their own good. Or is it me? Who knows. One day later, Miss Dinky who is probably stopping over from a trip to her hometown Santiago, plays a reduced but powerful set. And on New Year’s, they will host Paul Trouble Arnold, for Christ’s sake. Can it get any better? They are into breaks here as well! Wooohoo.

Cut. Three months later. Paul never played in Cocoliche (which is a pigin language the Tango – Lunfardo – people cultivated in Buenos Aires. It derives from a mixture of Spanish and Italian) because of the club blaze on December 28. It’s May now, and Cocoliche is still closed, undergoing renovation. I am in the backstage section which is kitted out with some music equipment – the mighty ProTools – art work, Mayan glyphs, and other stuff, and I instantly feel at home. Adolfo, the old wizard, and I have been in contact for a while—Paul Arnold sorted me out with his email address: “Fito? He said. He’s a legend.” Well, he is. He offered to help me with my application for my work visa, and he is impressing me more and more with his vision of putting together a decent club. Being a trained cook he managed to score a nice job in San Francisco where he got sucked into some serious party business, and it is obvious this initialization and exposure to First World clubbing has left an impact, big time. “Last year, we did this secret party on an island, and all the people who were involved in this were full on, from the people who were handling the boats to the bar staff. Everyone. These are the parties it’s worth living for. I lost some money, but then, I make some money with taking some shitty sponsorer on board, it’s all giving and taking.” He tells me all about the artist Alex Grey who is a big influence: On one side of Fito Brujos flank a giant multicolour tattoo depicting Christ is stenciled into his skin, and Adolfos gaunt features speak for themselves. At one point, much later, I feel I can sense his aura, he is shining in a bright cobalt blue. Around six o'clock, Emilio is joining us. Adolfo, who calls hi,self "a dancer DJ", plays some remixes some friends of his made of a track called “La Picha”. It’s quite scary and the lyrics are about the “Tyranny of The Penis”, something both boys seem to be able to relate to. It makes me wonder.


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